Growing Chrysanthemums: Varieties, Uses, and Care Instructions

Chrysanthemums – commonly known as ‘mums’ – are among the most popular and widely cultivated flowering plants in the world. Belonging to the Asteraceae family, these perennial beauties have been grown for over 3,000 years, originating in China where they were first cultivated as flowering herbs around the 15th century BCE. Today, with over 20,000 cultivars worldwide, chrysanthemums are a staple in floriculture, prized both as cut flowers and garden ornamentals. Whether you’re a floriculture student or a home gardener, understanding how to grow and care for chrysanthemums is an essential skill.

A brief history and botanical background 🔗

Chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum × morifolium) have a rich cultural legacy. They were originally domesticated in China, where they held both medicinal and ornamental value. Buddhist monks later brought them to Japan, where they became symbols of the imperial family. By the 18th century, Dutch explorers introduced chrysanthemums to Europe, and they quickly reached North America. The name itself comes from the Greek words chrys (golden) and anthemion (flower), reflecting the original yellow-coloured wild species. Today, chrysanthemums are the second-most commercially produced flower in the United States, surpassed only by roses.

Major varieties and classification 🔗

With thousands of cultivars available, it helps to understand how chrysanthemums are organised. The National Chrysanthemum Society (NCS) classifies all chrysanthemum cultivars into 13 bloom classes based on the shape and arrangement of their florets (the tiny individual flowers that make up each bloom head).

The 13 classes at a glance 🔗

Irregular incurve – These produce the largest blooms, often 6-8 inches across, with loosely incurving petals and a skirted appearance at the base. Reflex – Florets curve downward and overlap, creating a mop-like or flattened globe shape. Regular incurve – A true spherical bloom where petals curve inward evenly to form a tight ball. Decorative – The most common garden mum type, with a flattened bloom and short florets; upper petals incurve while lower ones reflex outward. Intermediate incurve – Smaller than the irregular incurve, with partially incurving florets and a more open look. Pompon – Small, round, globe-like blooms that start flat when young and become fully rounded at maturity. Single and semi-double – Daisy-like flowers with one or more rows of petals surrounding a visible centre disk. Anemone – Similar to semi-doubles but with a distinctive raised, cushion-like centre. Spoon – Ray florets have spatula-shaped or spoon-like tips, with a visible round centre. Quill – Straight, tubular petals with open tips; the bloom is fully double with no open centre. Spider – Long, tubular florets that may coil or hook at the ends, giving a dramatic firework-like appearance. Brush or thistle – Fine tubular florets that resemble an artist’s paintbrush or a spiky thistle. Unclassified/exotic – Blooms that don’t fit neatly into any other class, often exhibiting characteristics of multiple types.

In terms of colour, chrysanthemums are available in shades of yellow, white, red, pink, purple, bronze, orange, and lavender. Some popular cultivar names include ‘Ruby Mound’ (deep red), ‘Misty Cream’ (yellow-cream pompon), ‘Green Mist’ (striking green), and ‘Clara Curtis’ (early-blooming pink).

Uses of chrysanthemums 🔗

Chrysanthemums are far more versatile than most people realise. Their uses span ornamental, medicinal, culinary, and even agricultural applications.

Ornamental uses 🔗

As cut flowers, chrysanthemums are outstanding – they can last up to three weeks in a vase, which is significantly longer than most other cut flowers. They’re widely used in floral arrangements, bouquets, and event decorations. In the garden, they bring bold autumn colour to borders, beds, and containers precisely when most summer flowers have faded. Chrysanthemums also work well in dried flower arrangements.

Medicinal and culinary uses 🔗

In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), chrysanthemum has been used for over two millennia. The dried flowers of C. morifolium and C. indicum are brewed into a popular herbal tea across East Asia. According to WebMD, chrysanthemum contains flavonoids with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The tea is traditionally consumed for conditions like headaches, fever, sore throat, and high blood pressure. A review published in Heliyon notes that chrysanthemum flowers are rich in phenolic compounds and exhibit antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and hepatoprotective activities. Chrysanthemum petals are also used in salads, rice wine (known as gukhwaju in Korea), and steamed greens.

Natural pest control 🔗

Chrysanthemum flower heads contain pyrethrin, a natural compound widely used in commercial insecticides. This makes mums excellent companion plants in vegetable gardens, as they naturally help deter pests like aphids, beetles, and other harmful insects.

Climate and soil requirements 🔗

Getting the growing conditions right is critical for healthy chrysanthemum production. Here’s what they need.

Sunlight and photoperiod 🔗

Chrysanthemums require full sun – at least 5-6 hours of direct sunlight daily. They are short-day plants, meaning they form flower buds when day length drops below approximately 12 hours. This is why most varieties naturally bloom in autumn. If you’re growing mums near street lights or outdoor lighting, be aware that even artificial light at night can disrupt bud formation. Catalogs typically list varieties as early (September), mid-season (October), or late (November) bloomers based on their photoperiod response.

Temperature 🔗

Chrysanthemums thrive in moderate temperatures. Ideal daytime growing temperatures range from 20-28°C (68-82°F). Night temperatures of around 15-18°C support healthy growth and bud development. In regions where daytime temperatures regularly exceed 35°C, partial afternoon shade is advisable. Hardy varieties can tolerate winter conditions down to USDA Zone 5, while non-hardy types must be overwintered indoors or in a greenhouse.

Soil 🔗

The ideal soil for chrysanthemums is fertile, well-drained, and slightly acidic (pH 6.0-6.5). Heavy clay soils should be amended with organic matter such as compost, peat moss, or well-rotted manure to improve drainage and aeration. Mums have a shallow root system, so the soil should retain some moisture without becoming waterlogged. According to the Utah State University Extension, preparing the soil bed 10 days to two weeks before planting – by loosening soil to a depth of 6 inches and mixing in organic matter – gives the best results.

Propagation methods 🔗

Chrysanthemums are primarily propagated through vegetative means, which ensures that the offspring retain the exact characteristics of the parent plant.

Stem cuttings 🔗

This is the most common propagation method in commercial floriculture. In spring, take 3-4 inch cuttings from healthy, disease-free parent plants. Remove the lower leaves and insert the cut end about 1.5 inches deep into a moist rooting medium such as clean sand, perlite, or vermiculite. Keep cuttings at approximately 18-20°C (about 65°F) and protect them from direct sunlight for the first couple of days. Roots typically develop within 2-3 weeks, after which the rooted cuttings can be transplanted into the garden or pots.

Suckers and division 🔗

Hardy chrysanthemum varieties produce underground shoots called stolons, which generate new plants around the base of the mother plant. Every 2-3 years, in early spring just as new growth appears, you can dig up the entire clump and separate the smaller plants. Each division should have several shoots and a good portion of the root system. Replant the divisions promptly in freshly prepared soil, discard the old central portion of the plant, and water thoroughly.

Seeds 🔗

While chrysanthemums can be grown from seed, this method is less common commercially because seed-grown plants often show significant variation in flower colour, size, and form. If you do choose to start from seed, sow them indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Seeds typically germinate in 10-15 days.

Planting and spacing 🔗

Plant chrysanthemums in spring after the risk of frost has passed. Space low-growing, bushy varieties about 60-75 cm (2-2.5 feet) apart, and taller types about 30-45 cm (1-1.5 feet) apart. When transplanting, dig a hole large enough to comfortably accommodate the root ball, press soil firmly around the roots to eliminate air pockets, and water deeply. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch around the plants to conserve soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

Care instructions for healthy growth 🔗

Watering 🔗

Chrysanthemums need consistent moisture, especially during their active growth phase. Provide about one inch of water per week after planting. As the plant grows larger in summer, watering frequency may need to increase to two or three times a week in hot weather. Always water at the base of the plant early in the day so that foliage can dry before nightfall – wet leaves promote fungal diseases.

Fertilisation 🔗

Mums are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertiliser (such as 10-10-10 or 5-10-5) at planting time. A second application about four weeks after planting – at a rate of approximately 1 to 1.5 pounds per 100 square feet – supports vigorous growth. During the flowering phase, a weekly application of a high-potassium feed (like tomato fertiliser) can maximise bloom quality. If using controlled-release fertiliser, apply at a conservative rate since summer heat accelerates nutrient release.

Pinching 🔗

Pinching is one of the most important cultural practices in chrysanthemum production. When new shoots reach about 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) in height, pinch off the soft growing tips with your fingers. This encourages the plant to branch out and develop a bushy, compact form that carries more flowers. Continue pinching every two weeks until mid-June for early varieties, late June for mid-season types, and early July for late varieties. Pinching beyond these dates will delay or prevent bud formation entirely.

Disbudding 🔗

For growing large exhibition-style blooms (particularly irregular incurve and decorative types), disbudding is essential. This involves removing all side buds and allowing only the terminal or crown bud at the tip of each branch to develop. The result is fewer but significantly larger and more impressive flowers. For spray-type chrysanthemums (pompons, singles, etc.), the opposite approach is taken – the central bud is removed to encourage multiple smaller blooms per stem.

Staking 🔗

Tall or heavy-headed chrysanthemum varieties require staking to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of their blooms. Insert stakes early in the growing season and tie stems loosely as they grow. For large-flowered exhibition varieties, each individual branch may need its own support.

Common pests and diseases 🔗

Chrysanthemums face several pest and disease challenges that growers should be prepared for.

Pests 🔗

The most common insect pests include aphids, thrips, leaf miners, spider mites, and whiteflies. Aphids are particularly attracted to tender new growth and the undersides of leaves. They multiply rapidly in warm, sheltered environments like greenhouses. Regular scouting and early intervention – using insecticidal soap, neem oil, or appropriate biological controls – are key to keeping pest populations manageable.

Diseases 🔗

Major diseases include powdery mildew (grayish-white patches on leaves), rust (brown blisters on leaf undersides), Septoria leaf spot (brown or reddish spots spreading from the base upward), and various root rots caused by Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium. Verticillium wilt – a soil-borne fungal disease – causes wilting, browning, and poor flower production. Leaf nematodes are microscopic worms that create dark, wedge-shaped spots between leaf veins and can survive in the soil for three or more years.

Prevention strategies 🔗

Good cultural practices go a long way in disease prevention. Avoid planting in wet, shady spots. Space plants adequately for air circulation. Water early in the day. Remove and destroy any infected plant debris. Apply a preventive fungicide spray (such as those containing mancozeb or copper-based formulations) every 7-10 days during the growing season. As the Premier Tech Horticulture guide notes, allowing the growing medium to dry between waterings is one of the most effective ways to reduce root disease problems.

Post-bloom care and overwintering 🔗

After chrysanthemums have finished flowering, cut the dead stems down to ground level and clean up all fallen leaves and debris. For hardy varieties growing in the ground, apply a fresh layer of mulch (straw, dried leaves, or evergreen boughs) over the crown to protect against winter frost. Do not prune dead growth in autumn – it actually helps insulate the roots through winter. Remove the mulch in early spring when new green shoots emerge.

For non-hardy varieties or container-grown mums, dig up the plants after the first frost, pot them, and store them in a cool, frost-free place (like an unheated greenhouse or basement). Water sparingly through winter, and gradually reintroduce them to light and warmth in spring before transplanting back outdoors.

Chrysanthemums as cut flowers 🔗

For the best vase life, harvest chrysanthemum stems when the flowers are nearly or fully open. Use a sharp, clean blade and cut in the early morning or late evening. Immediately place the stems in clean water. Remove any leaves that would sit below the waterline, as submerged foliage rots quickly and shortens vase life. Change the water every two days. With proper care, cut chrysanthemums can remain fresh for 7-10 days, and spray types often last even longer.

What do you think? Have you ever grown chrysanthemums in your own garden, and if so, which bloom type or variety caught your eye the most? Given the impressive range of uses – from herbal medicine to natural pest control – do you think chrysanthemums deserve more attention beyond their traditional role as autumn ornamentals?

References

1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysanthemum
2. https://www.fast-growing-trees.com/blogs/plant-care-guides/chrysanthemums-growing-care-guide
3. https://www.carolinamums.org/classifications
4. https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/chrysanthemums-grow-guide/
5. https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-904/chrysanthemum
6. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10582400/
7. https://www.almanac.com/plant/chrysanthemums
8. https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/growing-chrysanthemums-in-the-home-garden
9. https://www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/training-center/crop-tips-chrysanthemums