Exploring the Various Bonsai Styles: From Formal Upright to Cascade

Bonsai is much more than growing a small tree in a pot. It is a centuries-old art form where specific styles dictate how the trunk, branches, and roots are shaped to replicate the way trees grow in nature. Each bonsai style captures a different story – a tree standing tall in open sunlight, one battered by mountain winds, or another clinging to a steep cliff. Understanding these styles is the first step toward creating a bonsai that looks natural, balanced, and visually compelling.

In this post, we break down the major bonsai styles – from the classic formal upright to the dramatic cascade and the complex multiple trunk forms – so you know what defines each one and which species work best for it.

Why bonsai styles matter 🔗

Bonsai styles were developed over many years to classify miniature trees based on how they resemble trees growing under various natural conditions. Wind, snow, gravity, sunlight competition, and rocky terrain all shape how a tree grows in the wild, and bonsai artists replicate these influences in miniature.

These styles are not rigid rules. They serve as guidelines that help artists plan how to prune, wire, and train their trees. A designer evaluates the raw material – the trunk’s natural curve, the position of branches, the species – and then selects a style that complements what the tree already wants to become. Forcing a naturally crooked-trunked tree into a formal upright, for example, would look unnatural and be far more difficult than training it as an informal upright or slanting style.

The five foundational styles are based on the angle of the trunk relative to the container: formal upright, informal upright, slanting, semi-cascade, and cascade. Beyond these, several multi-trunk and group styles add further variety.

Formal upright (Chokkan) 🔗

The formal upright style is considered the most classic and foundational of all bonsai forms. It represents a tree that has grown in an open location with abundant sunlight and no competition from neighbouring trees. The result is a straight, perfectly vertical trunk that tapers visibly from a thick base to a slender apex.

Key characteristics 🔗

The trunk is completely straight, and the apex sits directly above the centre of the trunk’s base. Branches are arranged symmetrically and progressively decrease in length and thickness from bottom to top, creating a triangular silhouette. The lowest branches are the longest and thickest, while branches near the top are short and fine. Strong, visible surface roots radiate evenly around the base, anchoring the tree visually.

The first branch typically starts at about one-quarter to one-third of the total trunk height. Two of the lower branches are trained to extend slightly toward the front, giving the composition depth when viewed head-on.

Suitable species and containers 🔗

Formal upright works well with species that naturally grow straight, such as pines, spruces, maples, and elms. This style is often recommended for beginners because the design principles are straightforward. It looks best in a rectangular or oval container that complements the tree’s vertical symmetry.

Informal upright (Moyogi) 🔗

The informal upright is the most popular bonsai style worldwide. It depicts a tree that has been gently shaped by wind, shifting light, or seasonal storms – resulting in a trunk that curves in a soft S-shape rather than growing perfectly straight.

Key characteristics 🔗

The trunk bends and curves as it rises, but the apex still remains directly above the base of the tree. This alignment is critical – without it, the tree loses its sense of balance. Branches emerge from the outer curves of the trunk, never from the inside of a bend, because that would not occur naturally. The overall taper is still visible, with the trunk being thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top.

The branching pattern is asymmetrical and alternate – the first primary branch grows to one side, the next to the opposite side, and so on. This creates a three-dimensional, naturalistic canopy. The visible root spread (called nebari) should be well-developed and contribute to the tree’s visual stability.

Suitable species and containers 🔗

Almost any species can be trained in the informal upright style, making it incredibly versatile. Popular choices include Japanese maple, Chinese elm, juniper, and pine. Rectangular or oval containers are commonly used, and both glazed and unglazed pots work well depending on whether the tree is deciduous or evergreen.

Slanting style (Shakan) 🔗

The slanting style represents a tree that has been pushed to one side by persistent wind or has grown at an angle while reaching toward sunlight. It sits between the upright and cascade styles in terms of trunk angle.

Key characteristics 🔗

The trunk grows at an angle of roughly 60 to 80 degrees relative to the ground. It can be straight or slightly curved, but the lean is the dominant visual feature. To create a sense of balance and prevent the tree from looking like it is about to topple, the first and lowest branch extends in the direction opposite to the lean.

Root development is also uneven on purpose – roots on the side opposite the lean are more prominent and visible, suggesting they are working hard to anchor the tree. On the leaning side, roots are less developed. Lower branches are arranged in groups of three, starting about one-third of the way up the trunk.

Suitable species and containers 🔗

Most species work for the slanting style, though conifers are particularly effective. Round or square containers are typically chosen, and the tree is usually planted in the centre of the pot to maintain visual equilibrium. The Brooklyn Botanic Garden notes that artists must carefully observe real trees growing at an angle to replicate their natural look convincingly.

Semi-cascade (Han-Kengai) 🔗

The semi-cascade style sits between the slanting and full cascade styles. It represents a tree growing near a cliff edge or over water, where the trunk droops sideways or downward but does not fall below the base of the container.

Key characteristics 🔗

The trunk initially grows upward from the soil for a short distance and then bends downward or to the side. The key rule is that the trunk and foliage do not extend below the bottom of the pot – that is what distinguishes it from a full cascade. The crown of the tree usually stays above the rim of the container, while subsequent branches may drape below the rim.

Because the tree leans to one side, a deep and heavy pot is needed to prevent it from tipping over. The tree should be planted near the centre for stability. This style requires careful counterbalancing – branches on the opposite side of the cascade help visually anchor the composition.

Suitable species and containers 🔗

Junipers, flowering cherries, willows, and certain ficus varieties are well-suited for this style. Semi-cascade bonsai are typically displayed in medium-depth round, square, or hexagonal pots.

Cascade (Kengai) 🔗

The cascade is one of the most dramatic bonsai styles. It replicates a tree growing on a steep cliff or mountainside, where the weight of snow, falling rocks, or gravity has forced the trunk to grow downward – sometimes far below the base of its container.

Key characteristics 🔗

The trunk begins growing upward, then bends sharply downward, often forming an S-shaped curve on the way down. The tip of the cascading trunk hangs below the bottom edge of the pot. Branches alternate along the outer curves of the trunk and grow horizontally to maintain balance. Because of the extreme downward growth, cascade bonsai are planted in tall, narrow pots and displayed on stands or at the edge of a table so the trunk can extend freely.

Training a tree in the cascade style is challenging because it goes against the tree’s natural tendency to grow upward. For this reason, it is best to choose species that are naturally low-growing or have flexible trunks, rather than forcing an upright species into an unnatural form. Trees in this style are often flowering species or conifers like pines and junipers – species naturally found in mountainous environments where cascading growth patterns occur.

Suitable species and containers 🔗

Junipers, pines, wisteria, and chrysanthemums are popular choices. The container is typically round or hexagonal and taller than it is wide, which is unique among bonsai pots. This extra depth accommodates the visual weight of the cascading trunk and provides root space for stability.

Additional notable styles 🔗

Beyond the five foundational trunk-orientation styles, several other bonsai forms are widely practised. These styles focus on trunk surface, multiple trunks, or group plantings.

Broom style (Hokidachi) 🔗

The broom style is best suited for deciduous trees with fine, dense branching. The trunk is straight and upright but does not extend to the top of the tree. Instead, it branches out in all directions at about one-third of the tree’s height, forming a rounded, dome-shaped crown. Species like elms, maples, and zelkovas are ideal. This style is especially striking in winter, when the bare branch structure is fully visible.

Literati style (Bunjingi) 🔗

The literati style features a tall, slender, often contorted trunk with very few branches – most of which are concentrated near the apex. It portrays a tree that has had to grow taller than all surrounding competition to reach sunlight. The trunk may twist and turn dramatically, and some branches are deliberately stripped of bark (a technique called jin) to suggest age and hardship. Literati bonsai are typically placed in small, round pots.

Windswept style (Fukinagashi) 🔗

The windswept style depicts a tree shaped by relentless wind blowing from one direction. All branches lean and extend in the same direction, as if frozen mid-gust. The trunk may be straight or curved, but the branches tell the story. This style can be combined with other forms – a windswept characteristic can be applied to informal upright, slanting, or semi-cascade designs.

Multiple trunk and group styles 🔗

Some of the most visually striking bonsai compositions involve more than one trunk or more than one tree. These styles create the impression of natural groves, forests, or trees that have survived storms.

Double trunk (Sokan) 🔗

In the double trunk style, two trunks emerge from a single root system. One trunk is dominant – thicker and taller – while the second is smaller and slightly slanted. The two trunks create a parent-and-child appearance. The junction where the trunks diverge should form a sharp V-shape, not a U-shape. No branches are allowed to grow between the two trunks, and both contribute to a unified canopy.

Multi-trunk (Kabudachi) 🔗

The multi-trunk style follows the same principle as the double trunk but with three or more trunks, all growing from a single root system. The thickest and most developed trunk is positioned as the tallest, and all trunks form one combined crown of leaves. An odd number of trunks (three, five, seven) is preferred for aesthetic balance.

Forest style (Yose-ue) 🔗

The forest style involves multiple individual trees planted together in a wide, shallow container to create a miniature woodland scene. Trees of varying heights and trunk thicknesses are arranged in a staggered, non-linear pattern to look natural. The tallest and thickest trees are usually placed toward the centre, with smaller trees on the sides and toward the back to create an illusion of depth and perspective. All trees are typically of the same species.

Raft style (Ikadabuki) 🔗

The raft style replicates what happens in nature when a tree is knocked over by a storm. The fallen trunk lies horizontally, and branches on the upper side begin growing vertically, eventually resembling new individual trees. New roots develop from the trunk where it contacts the soil, while the original root system may gradually fade away. In bonsai, this is achieved by planting a tree on its side and training the branches upward. The result looks like a miniature forest, but it is actually one single tree.

How to choose the right bonsai style 🔗

Selecting a style is not an arbitrary decision. It depends on three main factors:

1. The tree’s natural growth habit: Always work with what the tree naturally wants to do. A specimen with a naturally straight trunk is a good candidate for formal upright or broom. A tree with a curved or twisting trunk will be easier to train as an informal upright or slanting style. A tree with branches only on one side may be perfect for a windswept or raft style.

2. The species: Certain species are better suited to specific styles. Deciduous trees with fine branching (like elms and maples) excel in broom and informal upright styles. Conifers like junipers and pines are versatile and work across most styles, including cascade and windswept. Species with flexible trunks are essential for cascade and semi-cascade forms.

3. The desired aesthetic outcome: Formal styles convey stability and discipline – they are appropriate for formal displays. Informal and cascade styles feel more dynamic and expressive. The National Bonsai Foundation notes that formal trees suit stately occasions, while informal styles lend themselves to celebrations – something more playful and lively.

The container also plays a role. Upright styles pair with rectangular or oval pots. Cascade styles need tall, deep containers. Forest plantings require wide, shallow trays. The pot should complement the tree without competing with it visually.

Common techniques used across styles 🔗

Regardless of the chosen style, a few core techniques are used to shape bonsai trees:

Pruning serves two purposes – maintenance pruning removes unwanted growth, while structural pruning defines the overall shape of the tree. Regular pruning keeps branches in proportion and encourages the fine ramification that makes bonsai look mature.

Wiring is the primary method for bending and positioning trunks and branches. Wire (usually aluminium or copper) is wrapped around the section to be shaped, and the branch or trunk is gently bent into position. The wire must be monitored closely and removed before it cuts into the bark as the tree grows.

Repotting is done periodically (typically every two to five years depending on species and age) to refresh the soil, prune the roots, and maintain the tree’s health. Root pruning during repotting also contributes to the visible nebari that is important in many styles.

These techniques, combined with patience and observation, are what transform raw nursery stock or collected material into a refined bonsai in any style.

A quick reference of major bonsai styles 🔗

Formal upright (Chokkan): Straight vertical trunk, symmetrical branches, triangular silhouette. Best for pines, maples, elms.

Informal upright (Moyogi): Gently curved S-shaped trunk, asymmetric branching, apex over the base. Suits almost all species.

Slanting (Shakan): Trunk at 60-80 degrees, strong roots on one side, first branch opposite the lean. Good for conifers.

Semi-cascade (Han-Kengai): Trunk droops below the pot rim but not below the pot base. Junipers, cherries, willows.

Cascade (Kengai): Trunk falls below the pot base, planted in tall pots. Junipers, pines, wisteria.

Broom (Hokidachi): Straight trunk, rounded crown of fine branches. Elms, zelkovas, maples.

Literati (Bunjingi): Tall, contorted trunk with minimal branching near the top. Pines, junipers.

Windswept (Fukinagashi): All branches swept to one side. Can combine with other styles.

Double trunk (Sokan): Two trunks from one root system, one dominant.

Multi-trunk (Kabudachi): Three or more trunks from one root system.

Forest (Yose-ue): Multiple individual trees in a shallow tray.

Raft (Ikadabuki): Horizontal trunk with branches trained upward as new trunks.

What do you think? If you were starting your first bonsai, which style appeals to you most – the disciplined symmetry of a formal upright, or the dramatic sweep of a cascade? And how much do you think the tree’s natural growth should dictate the style, versus the artist’s creative vision?

References

1. https://www.bonsaiempire.com/origin/bonsai-styles
2. https://longwoodgardens.org/blog/2023-05-17/beauty-bonsai-styles
3. https://www.bbg.org/article/bonsai_styles
4. https://growyourbonsai.com/the-ultimate-bonsai-style-chart-with-pictures-details/
5. https://cincinnatibonsai.org/bonsai-tree-style-guide
6. https://www.bonsai-nbf.org/blog-archive/2019/6/24/know-your-styles-a-guide-to-bonsai-configurations
7. https://minnesotabonsaisociety.org/2018/02/11/bonsai-styles/