Effective Techniques for Plant Propagation by Cuttings

Growing new plants from cuttings is one of the oldest and most widely practiced techniques in horticulture. Whether you’re a nursery professional or a home grower, propagation by cuttings offers a reliable, low-cost way to multiply your plant stock – while preserving the exact characteristics of the parent plant. Unlike seed propagation, where offspring may vary genetically, plants grown from cuttings are genetically identical to the parent, making this method the preferred choice for maintaining true-to-type varieties of fruit crops, ornamentals, and commercial nursery plants.

What is propagation by cuttings? 🔗

Propagation by cuttings involves removing a section of a plant – typically a stem, but sometimes a root or leaf – and encouraging it to develop its own root system. Once rooted, the cutting grows as an independent plant. The method is particularly suited to species that root easily and produce consistent offspring, which is why it dominates the propagation of crops like grapes, figs, roses, and ornamentals such as chrysanthemum.

The success of any cutting depends on three core factors: the right plant material, the right time of year, and the right growing environment. Getting these elements aligned is what separates a high rooting success rate from a batch of failed cuttings.

Types of stem cuttings 🔗

Stem cuttings are the most common form used in nursery practice. They are broadly categorized based on the maturity and woody character of the stem at the time of collection.

Softwood cuttings 🔗

Softwood cuttings are taken from the soft, actively growing shoot tips of the current season’s growth – typically from spring through early summer. At the softwood stage, stems are succulent and snap easily when bent sharply, but the youngest leaves have not yet reached their mature size. This tender growth has a high capacity for cell division and root initiation, which is why softwood cuttings tend to root faster than other types.

The main challenge with softwood cuttings is moisture loss. Because the stems are soft and leafy, they are prone to wilting before roots form. To counter this, cuttings must be placed in a humid environment immediately after being taken. Softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings should be taken during the cooler parts of the day, cut to 4-6 inches in length, and placed immediately in a plastic bag to avoid wilting. The lower leaves are removed, and the base is typically dipped in rooting hormone before insertion into a well-draining rooting medium.

Plants that respond well to softwood propagation include forsythia, lilac, fuchsia, hydrangea, and many tender perennials. Chrysanthemum – one of the most commercially important ornamental plants – is a prime example of a plant propagated primarily through softwood cuttings, and is discussed in detail below.

Semi-hardwood cuttings 🔗

Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken in late summer, once the current season’s new growth has begun to firm up at the base but remains soft at the tip. Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from mid-July through early fall, and many broad-leaved evergreens like boxwood, holly, and rhododendron can be propagated this way. This type is commonly used for broad-leaved evergreens and certain fruit crops, and it strikes a balance between the rooting ease of softwood and the durability of hardwood.

Hardwood cuttings 🔗

Hardwood cuttings are taken during the dormant season – late autumn through winter – from mature, fully ripened wood of the previous growing season. The wood is firm and does not bend easily, and since deciduous plants have no leaves at this time of year, water loss is not a serious concern. This makes hardwood cuttings considerably easier to handle and store than softwood cuttings.

The tradeoff is time. Hardwood cuttings can take two to four months for roots to form, compared to the few weeks typically required for softwood cuttings. Despite this, hardwood propagation is widely favored in nursery management because it coincides with the period of least activity on the farm, and the cuttings are far more forgiving to handle and transport.

Hardwood cuttings are made from mature, dormant stems; crape myrtles, grapes, and pomegranates all root well using this technique. Other suitable plants include poplar, willow, fig, currants, roses, forsythia, and hydrangea.

How to take and prepare cuttings: key steps 🔗

Regardless of the cutting type, the basic process follows a consistent sequence. Attention to hygiene, timing, and technique at each step significantly improves rooting success.

Selecting the right plant material 🔗

Cuttings should come from vigorous, healthy wood – preferably from the upper part of the plant – while excessively vigorous or weak, spindly growth should be avoided. For hardwood cuttings, one-year-old wood from the previous summer’s growth is ideal. For softwood cuttings, healthy, non-flowering shoots in active growth give the best results.

Making the cut 🔗

The quality of the cut directly affects rooting outcomes. For best results, make a slanting cut slightly below a node using a sharp, clean knife. A slanting cut at the top of hardwood cuttings allows rainwater to run off and also helps identify which end is “up” during planting. The base of the cutting is typically cut straight across, just below a bud. A method of growing new plants from parts of an existing plant – when prepared correctly and planted in the right conditions – can produce roots and eventually become independent plants.

Using sterilized, sharp cutting tools is essential. Blunt or contaminated blades cause ragged cuts that heal slowly and invite fungal infection, which is a leading cause of cutting failure.

Rooting hormone 🔗

Rooting hormones – most commonly in powder or liquid form – contain synthetic auxins that stimulate the formation of adventitious roots at the cut end. For harder-to-root plants, dipping the bottom 1-2 inches of the cutting in rooting powder and tapping off the excess before inserting it into pre-dibbled holes can meaningfully improve results. That said, not all species need it. Grapes, for instance, root so readily from hardwood cuttings that rooting compounds are often considered unnecessary and may even reduce vigor in some cases.

Rooting medium and insertion depth 🔗

The rooting medium must be clean, sterile, and free-draining. Common mixes include equal parts coarse sand and peat moss, or sand and perlite. The rooting medium should not contain fertilizer – begin fertilizing only after cuttings have rooted and been transplanted to a growing medium.

For hardwood cuttings, at least one-third of the cutting should be inserted below ground with the proximal end facing down. For softwood cuttings, insertion to the first leaf node is sufficient. After insertion, the medium should be firmed gently around the cutting to eliminate air pockets.

Environmental conditions during rooting 🔗

Softwood cuttings need consistent warmth and high humidity to prevent wilting before roots form. A plastic bag, propagation dome, or mist tent is commonly used to maintain moisture around the foliage. Cuttings root more quickly and reliably in warm rooting medium, ideally maintained between 65-75°F, and a heating mat may help in cooler environments.

Hardwood cuttings, by contrast, need far less attention during rooting. Since they have no leaves, humidity management is not critical, and they can often be stuck directly into outdoor beds of sand or prepared soil and left through winter.

Propagation of grapes by hardwood cuttings 🔗

Grapevine propagation by hardwood cuttings is one of the most widely practiced applications of this technique in fruit production. Grapes root reliably from dormant wood, and the annual pruning cycle naturally produces abundant cutting material each season.

Cuttings are prepared from the previous year’s one-year-old wood and can be taken at any time during the dormant season, though early collection reduces the risk of desiccation during cold, dry winters. Healthy mature wood that is 12-18 inches long and includes at least three to four buds is selected, with the base cut straight and the top cut at an angle.

Three of the buds should be placed underground, with the remaining bud above the soil surface. Because grape internodes are relatively long, cuttings must be longer than those of most other shrubs to ensure they contain a sufficient number of nodes. Planting orientation is critical – cuttings inserted upside-down will not root. The base-straight, top-angled cutting convention makes it easy to identify the correct direction.

In humid climates, cuttings can be planted directly into field rows. In drier regions, it is best to grow cuttings in a nursery bed for one year to allow full root development before transplanting to the vineyard. Rooting success for dormant hardwood grape cuttings is typically high – often reaching 70-80% under proper conditions.

Propagation of chrysanthemum by softwood cuttings 🔗

Chrysanthemum is one of the most important ornamental crops worldwide, and cutting propagation is the standard commercial method for multiplying elite varieties. Since chrysanthemums do not come true from seed, cuttings are the only reliable way to reproduce a specific cultivar.

Softwood cuttings should be taken in spring and early summer from pliable stems when shoots reach eight to ten inches tall, ideally in the morning when stems are turgid. Healthy, non-flowering shoots are selected, and clean cuts are made at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node – the lower leaves are then removed, leaving only a few sets of leaves at the top.

For chrysanthemums, a specialized technique called basal cuttings is also used. For basal cuttings of chrysanthemum, shoots are taken from the base of the plant in spring – a small wound is sliced at the base of the cutting before dipping it in hormone rooting powder, which helps roots grow from the sides rather than straight down.

After preparation, cuttings are inserted in a free-draining rooting medium and maintained at around 18-20°C in bright but indirect light. Roots typically develop within three to four weeks, after which cuttings are hardened off in a sheltered outdoor area before transplanting. In commercial chrysanthemum production, stock plants are maintained specifically for cutting supply, and pinching back the stock plant after each harvest encourages a fresh flush of shoot growth for subsequent rounds of propagation.

Root cuttings: an additional method 🔗

While stem cuttings dominate nursery practice, some species are propagated effectively from root cuttings. This is especially relevant for plants that produce vigorous root growth or where stem cuttings are unreliable. Cuttings of landscape plants are usually made from shoots or stems, but a few may be made from roots. Root cuttings are typically taken during dormancy, when root carbohydrate reserves are highest, and sections are planted horizontally or vertically in a rooting medium until new shoots emerge.

Factors affecting rooting success 🔗

Even with correct technique, rooting outcomes can vary. Several factors consistently influence success across all cutting types:

Stock plant health: Cuttings taken from stressed, diseased, or nutrient-deficient plants root poorly. Always select material from healthy, well-maintained parent plants. In grapevine propagation, it is important to scout vineyards for virus-infected vines and avoid taking cuttings from marked or suspect plants.

Cutting age and maturity: The developmental stage of the cutting must match the technique. Overly young, tender growth is prone to rot before roots can form, while overly mature wood may have reduced rooting potential. For softwood cuttings, the window is typically June through August – cuttings taken before June are often too soft and rot, while those taken after August are usually too woody and root slowly.

Sanitation: The rooting medium must be clean and sterile, as diseases are a frequent cause of poor rooting and can be contracted from containers, tools, workbenches, or rooting media that have not been sterilized. Sterilizing tools with alcohol between cuts, especially when moving between species, reduces disease transmission significantly.

Moisture management: Softwood cuttings need consistently moist – not waterlogged – conditions and high ambient humidity until roots form. Softwood cuttings have the highest rooting potential of any stem cutting, but they need adequate moisture and warmth to realize that potential. Hardwood cuttings are far less demanding in this regard but should not be allowed to dry out completely, especially in containers.

Temperature: Warm soil temperatures accelerate root initiation, while cold conditions slow or halt the process. Bottom heat – achieved through heating mats or cables – is a practical way to maintain optimal root-zone temperatures in cooler propagation environments.

Post-rooting care and nursery management 🔗

Successfully rooted cuttings still require careful management before they are ready for sale or transplanting. Once roots are visible or a gentle tug reveals resistance, cuttings should be potted into a nutritive growing medium – the rooting medium alone lacks the fertility required for plant development.

Young, rooted cuttings need protection during their first winter season – either mulching with straw or placing in a cold frame is recommended. After two growing seasons in a nursery bed or container, young plants are typically ready to move to permanent locations. Gradual hardening off – progressively increasing exposure to outdoor conditions – is essential for cuttings that were rooted under protected, controlled environments.

What do you think? Hardwood and softwood cuttings each offer distinct advantages depending on the species and time of year – which of these two approaches do you think would be more practical for small-scale nursery operations in your region? And given how widely grapes and chrysanthemums are cultivated globally, how might optimizing cutting propagation techniques contribute to reducing the cost of nursery-produced planting material for smallholder farmers?

References

1. https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6970
2. https://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/yardandgarden/extpub/new-plants-from-cuttings-text-only/
3. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/hardwood-cuttings-for-shrub-tree-propagation/
4. https://www.rhs.org.uk/propagation/hardwood-cuttings
5. https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/propagation-trees-shrubs-and-vines-hardwood-cuttings
6. https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_h/H322/index.html
7. https://practicalselfreliance.com/growing-grapes-from-cuttings/
8. https://grapes.extension.org/when-is-the-best-time-to-take-cuttings-to-propagate-a-grape-vine-and-what-is-the-correct-propagation-procedure/
9. https://www.epicgardening.com/propagate-chrysanthemums/
10. https://www.homesandgardens.com/gardens/how-to-propagate-chrysanthemums
11. https://www.hillier.co.uk/garden-and-home-ideas/propagating-by-softwood-and-hardwood-cuttings/
12. https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/propagating-plants-for-the-home-landscape
13. https://www.rhs.org.uk/propagation/softwood-cuttings